Ah, beautiful bohemian Benirras. While the arc of dark, pebbly sand that makes up this iconic cove in the north of Ibiza may be relatively small, its reputation has reached all corners of the globe. The very epitome of the island’s free-spirited reputation, life on Benirras marches to the beat of its own drum, quite literally – but more on that later…
The pine-clad hills surrounding the beach of Benirras create stunning scenery as you drive down the winding road that leads directly to the sand. While the area is best known for its famous crescent-shaped beach, there is also plenty to do in the surrounding hills – making it an ideal place to make your home base for an Ibiza holiday. “What’s great about Benirras is that it still feels quite rustic and authentic,” says Dynamic Lives general manager Electra Garcia, who grew up on the island so knows exactly what she’s talking about. “But it can still be luxurious – beautiful villas are cleverly hidden away within the forest, giving you a feeling of seclusion and privacy, while one of the most buzzing beaches in Ibiza is just a few minutes away.” For families, nature lovers, groups of friends and retreat groups, Benirras is a heaven-sent holiday destination.
If you are staying in the area, it’s imperative you pop into Can Curune on arrival – once you’ve become a convert, it’s likely you’ll want to pop in daily (like most northern locals). If you’ve been to Benirras before, you’ll recognise the classic white building as the last port of call at the entrance to the beach road. “Can Curune is a typical Spanish restaurant with a supermarket attached,” explains Electra. “It’s always been THE place to stock up on beach picnic supplies, or post-beach ice creams while picking up essentials for the villa before you head home.” As opposed to many of Ibiza’s more basic supermarkets, Can Curune caters to its discerning international clientele – it may look charming from the outside, but within you’ll find high-end ingredients from all over the globe, an endless array of healthy and organic produce and foods, plus fantastic wines and of course, all your pantry staples.
The family run Can Curune restaurant meanwhile, is the place to indulge in typical local cuisine. The breezy terrace is ideal for breakfast and lunch, and the cosy interior is a great place to hole up later in the evenings after the sun goes down. “It’s a true taste of Ibiza,” says Electra, who recommends the Ibicenco breakfast of sobrasada (locally made sausage) and fried eggs if you feel like indulging. “Classic local dishes like builit de peix (fish stew), paella, slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with lots of garlic, local fish – it’s fantastic.” It’s worth going off-piste on Sundays however, when the house specialty is cous cous – that’s if you can get a table, given it’s the busiest day of the week (don’t worry, our concierge manager Ed Graham can sort that for you). At this time of the week, the Can Curune terrace becomes the best place for people watching after the legendary Sunday bongo sessions on the beach.
No Ibiza holiday is complete without experiencing a Sunday on Benirras – whether you’re staying in the north, south, east or west, it’s a pilgrimage that must be made. By day, it’s business as usual – blue skies, crystal clear turquoise seas, boats bobbing on the water, families picnicking in the fishermen’s shacks that line the rugged coast, sun-worshippers vying for the best position on the grainy sand. Around an hour before the sun begins its descent into the sea, you’ll hear the faint rhythm of a bongo drum coming from the abandoned chiringuito space at the end of the beach; joined by another, and yet another, until the airwaves are pulsating with the tribal beats of hundreds of drums. This is the ritual; the Benirras version of Sunday service. The drummers are the choir, the beachgoers are the congregation and the sunset is the higher power.
As the sun goes down, the colours of the sky mutate from blue to gold, to pink and flaming orange, to magenta and purple and finally, deep blue to slate, peppered with the twinkling of thousands of stars. Directly in the centre of the bay, a stunning rock formation rises like a centrepiece from the sea – its real name is Cap Bernat, but locals have referred to it as the ‘hand of God’ for decades – adding more drama to the incredible natural spectacle. An impromptu dance floor starts on the sand – it’s almost impossible not to get carried away with the heady rhythm of the drums and the magical sunset above. “The drumming on Sundays has been taking place since 1991,” explains Electra. “It’s a true testament to the Ibiza spirit and so much fun for all ages. Everyone should experience it at least once in a lifetime.”
All that beaching, drumming and dancing is known to work up an appetite and on the food front, Benirras delivers something for everyone. If you’re facing the sea, most of the right hand side of the beach is dominated by Elements – an expansive multi-purpose space that is the heart of the action before, during and after sunset most nights. In recent years, Elements has expanded to incorporate Sejuiced (which was Ibiza’s very first juice bar, back in the day), an authentic Italian style pizzeria (ideal for families), a Mediterranean restaurant with an ethos on sustainable and local produce, a lounge bar plus a boutique and massage area. After dark, a DJ plays ethereal and world music, in keeping with the authentic hippie vibes of this northern haven.
Just next door, nestled on the cusp of the rocky mountain, is Restaurante 2000 – famed for its typical Ibicenco cuisine, it’s a place that seems to have been frozen in time (in a good way) since it opened in the 70s. It’s not super slick, the cuisine isn’t fancy, but it’s homemade, hearty and relaxed – the kind of place where you can eat with your feet in the sand while your kids run amuck around the tables. Across the beach, Roca Y Mar is another Benirras staple – more relaxed traditional Spanish cuisine, with unspoiled panoramic views directly out over the bay. “These places make you feel like you’ve stepped into a postcard of Ibiza back in the hippie days,” laughs Electra. “The menus are the same, the décor is the same – but if it ain’t broke, why fix it?”
For lovers of that iconic Ibiza boho style, there’s no shortage of bohemian trinkets, handmade hippie fashions and organic beauty products on offer at the daily pop-up market outside Elements, but local girls will be quick to tell you cannot leave Benirras without a trip to World Family Ibiza. This treasure trove of one-of-a-kind handbags, accessories, jewellery and incredible handmade coats is the very epitome of Ibiza style. Founded by renowned island couple Merel and Alok, who met, fell in love and lived in a caravan and tipi on Benirras in its boho heyday in the 90s, their flagship boutique – adjacent to Can Curune – this should be your final pit stop on the Benirras map. While money can’t buy that authentic Benirras magic, it can definitely help you look and feel the part when you get back home!
If you like the sound of staying in the pine forests near Benirras, we have some beautiful villas – including Casa Magazen, Casa San Miguel and Villa Marine – in the area. Alternatively, if you’re staying elsewhere, let us know and our team can arrange a day trip to Benirras for the popular Sunday rituals, or any other day of the week!
